North Downs Way – Planning England’s Most Underrated National Trail

Everything you need to know to prepare for the North Downs Way, England’s most underrated National Trail, including day to day planning, where to eat and where to stay.

The North Downs Way is a long-distance trail that winds through the rolling countryside of southeast England. It offers a perfect mix of history, nature, and beautiful viewpoints along the way. 

Stretching 153 miles from Farnham in Surrey to the white cliffs of Dover, this route follows the ancient chalk ridges that have guided travellers for centuries – Roman soldiers, medieval pilgrims, and now, hikers like you and I. 

It’s not the most famous of Britain’s national trails, but that’s part of its charm. You’ll get sweeping views, peaceful woodlands, and plenty of historic pubs without the crowds of, say, the South West Coast Path in Cornwall and Devon.

And best of all, it can be done in stages as day trips from London.

So here is everything you need to know in order to plan your North Downs Way National Trail hike.

Everything you need to know about the North Downs Way

If you’re thinking about tackling the North Downs Way, you’re in the right place. This is England’s most underrated trail, and it’s full of little surprises along the way.

It can be done in one go if you have the time (and stamina), or broken into smaller sections as day trips or weekend escapes, which is what I did. 

You’ll pass through unspoiled villages, explore Canterbury’s cathedral city, and maybe even detour for a vineyard tour (yes, English wine is surprisingly good!). 

The North Downs way is for hikers of all abilities, whether you’re a seasoned long distance hiker or a newbie looking for a new challenge. It combines manageable distances with plenty of places to rest, refuel, and take in the scenery.

Breaking down the North Downs Way route

If you have the time and are up for the full adventure, hiking the North Downs Way end-to-end usually takes about 10 to 14 days. This will depend on how fast you go and how many pub stops you allow yourself.

There’s a mix of camping spots, B&Bs, and small hotels along the way, so you can go full backpacker mode or keep things a little more comfortable.

On the other hand, if you’re based in London and don’t fancy taking weeks off to hike the whole thing, the North Downs Way is easy to break into day hikes or weekend chunks thanks to train connections along the route. 

Popular sections like Farnham to Guildford, Otford to Wrotham, or Canterbury to Dover can be done as standalone walks, letting you chip away at the trail bit by bit.

Canterbury or Folkestone Loop?

Unlike most national trails, the North Downs Way gives you a choice of two routes towards the end. The split happens at Boughton Lees, 99 miles from Farnham.

The northern option, which is about six miles longer, passes through Canterbury and follows The Pilgrims Way, an ancient pilgrimage route that went from Winchester to Canterbury.

The southern route follows the Heritage Coast via Folkestone and is a more direct line to Dover, taking in the famous White Cliffs for a dramatic finish.

Most people pick one route, but if you’re feeling ambitious, you can do both as a loop starting and ending in either Dover or Wye. Another option is to walk from Wye to Dover on one route, then return to Wye and tackle the other – double the adventure, double the scenery.

Luggage transfer along the North Downs Way

There are several companies that can organise your North Downs Way walk for you, which often include baggage transfer to make things easier. 

But if you’d rather just sort your own accommodation, you might have to carry your own luggage. Most hikers will walk the trail on day or weekend trips from London, which means there isn’t much demand for heavy bag transfers.

Accommodation on the North Downs Way

There are plenty of accommodation options, from cosy B&Bs to characterful country inns, near the North Downs Way.

However, at the end of some sections, you may need to walk an extra 20-30 minutes off the actual trail or get public transport to find accommodation. This is the case especially during busy holiday times, so it’s a good idea to book in advance.

I have listed places to stay for each section below.

Guide books and maps

The North Downs Way is clearly signed along the way, so you don’t really need a map. However, if you are like me and like to follow your hike along a map, there are some excellent North Downs Way Guides.

North Downs Way Route – Day by Day Guide

Day 1 – Farnham to Guildford (10 miles)

The North Downs Way starts in Farnham, a lovely little Surrey market town. It’s worth arriving the night before so you can get a fresh start for the first day. However, as it’s not a very long day, you can easily get the train from London to the starting point.

The walk begins along the River Wey before leading you into woodlands along the historic Pilgrim’s Way. Before long, you’ll emerge into open fields with cracking views of the Hogs Back ridge. 

Along the way, you’ll pass the stunning Loseley Estate, a grand stately home steeped in history, where you can take a guided tour if you fancy a break.

Then it’s on to Guildford, a lively town with a charming high street and a castle that’s worth a quick detour.

Day 1 Highlights

• Loseley Estate: A large Tudor manor house with beautifully kept gardens designed by Gertrude Jekyll.
• Watts Gallery and Artists’ Village: An art gallery in the village of Compton dedicated to the Arts & Crafts painter and sculptor George Frederic Watts. 
• Guildford Castle: A Norman fortress built by William The Conqueror in 1066. Only the Keep remains, and the moat has been turned into beautiful gardens.

Day 1 – Where to eat 

The Good Intent, Puttenham – A 17th/18th century village pub with an inglenook fireplace, a beer garden and a simple but hearty menu. Perfectly located halfway between Farnhamd and Guildford.

Day 1 – Where to stay 

Day 2 – Guildford to Westhumble (15 miles)

Leaving Guildford, the North Downs Way quickly swaps the town streets for open countryside, and before you know it, you’re climbing up to the dramatic viewpoint at St Martha’s Hill. 

It’s a bit of a workout, but totally worth it – on a clear day, you’ll get sweeping views over the Surrey Hills and beyond. 

St Martha’s Church, perched right on top, is a Norman church with a history dating back to the Iron Age. From there, the trail dips into shaded woodland, winding through sandy trails and heather-covered heathland.

As you continue, the route takes you past the ruins of St Catherine’s Chapel and then through the gorgeous rolling landscapes of the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. 

Before long, you’ll reach one of the highlights of this stretch: the climb up to Denbies Hillside. It’s a bit of a leg-burner, but once you’re at the top, the views over the Mole Valley are absolutely stunning.

From there, the trail meanders towards Ranmore Common, where dappled forest paths offer some welcome shade. 

Eventually, you’ll descend towards Westhumble, a quiet little spot just a stone’s throw away from Dorking, where you can find a cosy pub or café to refuel before the next leg of the journey.

Day 2 Highlights

• Newlands Corner: A nature reserve with chalk grassland, woodlands and ancient yews with stunning views over the Surrey Hills.
• St Martha’s Church: A Norman church with a history dating back to the Iron Age. The views of the Surrey Hills from here are stunning.
• St Barnabas Church: A beautiful 19th century church that is known as ‘The Church of the North Downs Way’.
• Denbies Vineyard: Fantastic views of Dorking and Box Hill as you walk through the vineyard.

Day 2 – Where to eat 

The Compasses Inn, Gomshall – A traditional British public house with a hearty menu perfect to replenish energy halfway through the hike.

Day 2 – Where to stay 

Day 3 – Westhumble to Merstham (10 miles)

Cross the River Mole on the famous Stepping Stones (there’s also a bridge for those preferring something sturdier), and follow the trail straight into one of its most iconic sections – Box Hill.

This is where the trail gets steep, with a lung-busting climb up the famous zig-zagging steps, but the views from the top make it all worthwhile. On a clear day, you can see for miles across the Surrey countryside, and it’s a perfect spot for a quick break (or an excuse to catch your breath). 

From here, the trail rolls along the ridge, passing through wooded paths and open chalk grasslands buzzing with wildlife.

After Box Hill, the route undulates through quiet countryside, leading you past Reigate Hill, where another fantastic viewpoint and a conveniently placed café make for a great pit stop. 

From here, the trail gradually descends towards Merstham, a small but well-connected village, which makes it a natural stopping point.

Day 3 Highlights

• Box Hill: Possibly the most beautiful spot in the area, with incredible views over the Surrey Hills, an Outstanding Area of Natural Beauty, and even the South Downs on a clear day.
• Inglis Memorial, Reigate Hill: Originally built as a grand drinking fountain for horses, this beautiful memorial is a great place to take a break.
• Reigate Fort: Built in 1898, it is one of 13 Napoleonic Forts that were built to protect London from the French.

Day 3 – Where to eat 

Junction 8 Cafe, Reigate – This little cafe serves delicious ciabatta sandwiches, cheese toasties and hot chocolate, with a side of stunning views.

Day 3 – Where to stay 

Day 4 – Merstham to Oxted (8 miles)

From Merstham, the North Downs Way has a mix of gentle woodland trails and open farmland. This stretch might not have the dramatic climbs of Box Hill, but it’s got its own charm, peaceful, rolling countryside where you can really find your stride.

Along the way, you’ll pass ancient chalk quarries and hidden bunkers, reminders of the area’s long history.  

As you approach Oxted, the trail takes you through more shaded woodland before opening up to views across the Kent and Surrey countryside. Keep an eye out for St Peter’s Church in Tandridge, a lovely little spot with a famous yew tree said to be over 1,000 years old.

Eventually, the trail dips down towards Oxted, a lively town with plenty of options for a well-earned break before tackling the next stretch.

Day 4 Highlights

• Whitehill Tower: This Victorian tower was built in 1862 as a folly. It is now a ruinous shell.

Day 4 – Where to eat 

The Harrow – Chaldon, Caterham – Classic English pub with a wood-panelled bar and garden that serves hearty meals ideal to replenish your energy for the trail.

Day 4 – Where to stay 

There are no hotels in Oxted, but there are a couple of bed and breakfasts where you will be very comfortable – Mead’s Bed & Breakfast and Arawa B&B.

Day 5 – Oxted to Otford (12 miles)

This section of the North Downs Way feels a little quieter and more remote, making it a great opportunity to just enjoy a bit of peaceful walking.

As you get closer to Otford, the trail starts to open up, revealing sweeping views across the Kent countryside. 

Just before reaching the village, you’ll pass through the atmospheric woodland of Knockholt Pound and climb a gentle ridge with one last panoramic view before descending into Otford. 

This historic village is a great place to rest, with its medieval buildings, a famous duck pond, and plenty of spots for a well-earned break before continuing your journey.

Day 5 Highlights

• Titsey Place: A grand English country house with origins in the 16th century with lovely tea rooms and gorgeous gardens.

Day 5 – Where to eat 

The Rose and Crown Sevenoaks – A rural former coaching inn from the early 1800s serving refreshing drinks and home cooked food.

Day 5 – Where to stay 

Day 6 – Otford to Cuxton (15 miles)

From Otford, the North Downs Way climbs steadily up onto the ridge, rewarding you with fantastic views over the Kent countryside. This section is a varied and enjoyable walk with a lovely mix of woodland, open fields, and quiet lanes.

The trail as you near Wrotham is relatively gentle. You’ll pass through sections of ancient woodland and catch glimpses of distant hills rolling towards the horizon.

Wrotham itself is a charming little village with a long history. It was once an important stop on the pilgrimage route to Canterbury. Today, it’s a great place to refuel, with a couple of good pubs and a welcoming atmosphere.

The stretch between Wrtoham and Cuxton feels wonderfully rural, with quiet trails that weave through fields and past hidden pockets of ancient woodland. 

Along the way, you’ll pass the Coldrum Long Barrow, a fascinating Neolithic burial site that’s one of the oldest in the country, worth a short detour if you like a bit of history with your hike.  

As you get closer to Cuxton, the scenery starts to shift, with the trail offering some great views over the Medway Valley. 

There’s a bit of up and down in this section, but nothing too taxing, and the sight of the river in the distance makes for a satisfying end to the walk.

Day 6 – Where to eat 

Rose & Crown, Wrotham – A proper community pub serving hearty food that welcomes walkers and pets. 

Trosley Country Park Cafe – A little cafe serving local, seasonal produce. The menu includes homemade snacks, light meals, cakes and even homemade dog biscuits for your four-legged friends.

Day 6 – Where to stay 

Day 7 – Cuxton to Detling (12 miles)

From Cuxton, the North Downs Way crosses the River Medway via the high footbridge, offering fantastic views over the water and across to Rochester. It’s a bit of a change in scenery, with the industrial heritage of the Medway contrasting against the rolling countryside ahead. 

Once you’re over the bridge, you’ll climb back up onto the ridge, and just like that, you’re back in the peaceful setting of the North Downs.  

This stretch has a lovely mix of woodland and open fields, with some great viewpoints along the way.

One of the highlights is Blue Bell Hill, where you get sweeping views over the Medway Valley – it’s a perfect spot for a breather.

The trail then winds through quiet forests and past the ancient Kit’s Coty House, a set of Neolithic stones surrounded by legends.

Eventually, you’ll reach Detling, a charming little village close to Maidstone, which has plenty of options to rest up for the day.

Day 7 Highlights

• Blue Bell Hill: A stunning viewpoint that overlooks the River Medway and a Site of Special Scientific Interest. This spot has its own haunting ghost story too.
• Kit’s Coty House: Remains of an Early Neolithic dolmen burial chamber. You will find Little Kit’s Coty House nearby too. 

Day 7 – Where to eat 

The Robin Hood, Chatham – A 700-year-old pub with a wood burner that offers a seasonal menu.

The Lower Bell, Blue Bell Hill – A restaurant that serves pizza Monday to Saturday and a famous Sunday Roast on a Sunday.

The Cock Horse Inn, Detling – Village pub in the heart of Detling that serves locally sourced food.

Day 7 – Where to stay 

Day 8 – Detling to Lenham (15 miles)

This is a beautiful stretch of trail through the heart of the Kent countryside. The path winds through peaceful woodland and across rolling farmland, with plenty of those classic chalky tracks that make the North Downs so distinctive.

There are a few ups and downs, but nothing too strenuous – just enough to keep things interesting.  

You’ll pass through open fields, ancient woodlands, and quiet country lanes before descending into the village. 

Lenham itself is a charming spot, with historic cottages, a welcoming pub, and a real sense of rural England.

Day 8 Highlights

• Thurnham Castle (remains of): Ruins of an ancient castle believed to have been owned by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, brother of William The Conqueror.

Day 8 – Where to eat 

The Dirty Habit, Hollingbourne – Currently being refurbished but due to reopen in early 2025.

The Bow Window Cafe, Lenham – A quaint little cafe perfect for a pit stop. They serve light lunches, homemade cakes and delicious afternoon tea.

Day 8 – Where to stay 

Day 9 – Lenham to Wye (18 miles)

Leaving Lenham, the North Downs Way takes you up onto the ridge again, where you’re treated to big skies and sweeping views over the Weald of Kent.

The trail meanders through open farmland and pockets of woodland, offering a mix of shade and wide-open scenery. If you’re walking in spring or summer, expect to see wildflowers lining the path and plenty of birdlife overhead.  

As you get closer to Wye, the landscape gently undulates, leading you past the Wye Crown, a huge chalk hillside carving that marks the spot where students first cut the design in 1902.

It’s a sure sign you’re nearly there, and from here, the trail dips down into the charming village of Wye.

Day 9 Highlights

• Lenham Cross: A chalk cross carved onto the hillside just north of the village of Lenham, that was designed as a First World War memorial.

Day 9 – Where to eat 

The Bow Window Cafe, Lenham – A quaint little cafe perfect for breakfast. They serve delicious breakfast, specialty coffee and homemade cakes.

The Windmill, Hollingbourne – Worth the trail detour for the seasonal menu of The Windmill, in the heart of Hollingbourne.

Day 9 – Where to stay 

Route to Dover via the Heritage Coast – Option 1 of Loop

Day 10a – Wye to Folkestone (15 miles)

As you leave Wye, the North Downs Way climbs steadily up onto the exposed ridge of the Wye Downs, where you will find the commemorative Wye Crown carved on the side of the hill. These are some of the most spectacular views of the entire trail.

The Devil’s Kneading Trough, a deep, dramatic dry valley carved into the chalk, is a real highlight. On a clear day, you can see all the way across the Weald to the South Downs.

This stretch has a wonderfully wild feel, with open skies, rolling hills, and a real sense of walking along the spine of the landscape.

As you continue towards Folkestone, the trail dips in and out of woodland before opening up again to reveal the English Channel in the distance. 

The final stretch takes you through quiet farmland and along grassy paths before gradually descending towards the coast. 

Arriving in Folkestone feels like a real milestone, with its mix of seaside charm and lively town atmosphere. There’s a real feeling that you are very close to the end, with just one final push towards Dover.

Day 10a Highlights

• Wye Crown: A big crown carved on to the side of the chalky hill to commemorate the coronation of King Edward VII in 1902.
• Devil’s Kneading Trough: A dramatic viewpoint often described as Kent’s top beauty spot, from where you can see out over the flat Kentish Weald to Romney Marsh and as far as the English Channel.
• Folkestone White Horse: Another hill figure carved into Cheriton Hill, above the Channel Tunnel terminal. It is a relatively new monument, created to mark the millennium.

Day 10a – Where to eat 

The Tiger Inn, Stowting – A 17th century village pub with a modern twist that is located right on the North Downs Way. It serves food made with locally sourced ingredients and has a lovely patio for an al fresco lunch.

Day 10a – Where to stay 

Day 11a – Folkestone to Dover (8.5 miles) 

The final stretch of the North Downs Way between Folkestone and Dover is pretty spectacular. 

From Folkestone, the trail quickly climbs up onto the cliffs, where you’re treated to breathtaking views of the English Channel. On a clear day, you may even be able to see France in the distance.

The path follows the undulating coastline, with dramatic chalk cliffs on one side and rolling countryside on the other. It’s a real “pinch me” moment and a fitting way to end the journey.  

As you approach Dover, the iconic White Cliffs come into full view, giving you a real sense of arrival. 

The final miles take you through Samphire Hoe, a unique nature reserve created from the excavated chalk of the Channel Tunnel, before leading you up to the grand finale – Dover Castle standing proudly above the town. 

Reaching the official endpoint of the trail feels like a true achievement, with the sea stretching out before you and the historic port marking the end of this incredible adventure.

Day 11a Highlights

• Capel Battery: A Second World War artillery battery at Capel built between 1941 and 1942 on the cliff tops of Capel-Le-Ferne. One of a few WWII sites found along this stretch of coast.
• Battle of Britain Memorial: A monument and museum dedicated to the heroic pilots who won the Battle of Britain in 1940. A sobering yet beautiful site, and a real highlight of the trail.

• Abbot’s Cliff Sound Mirror: A concrete structure, built in 1928 as part of an early warning air defense system. It’s a very well-preserved example of pre-Radar technology.
• Dover Castle: A medieval fortress established in the 11th century. Its historical significance as a defensive structure has earned it the title “Key to England”.

Day 11a – Where to eat 

The Royal Oak, Capel-Le-Ferne – A pub a few mins’ walk from the trail serving simple lunches and the last chance to stop for food before Dover.

Day 11a – Where to stay 

Route to Dover via Canterbury – Option 2 of Loop

Day 10b – Wye to Canterbury (14 miles) 

From Wye you need to walk back a couple of miles to take the Canterbury branch of the North Downs Way. 

Here the trail enters a quieter, more rural section. Itl winds through rolling farmland, peaceful woodlands, and charming Kentish villages, following ancient tracks and quiet country lanes for an easy and enjoyable walk.

As you walk in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who made their way to Canterbury over the centuries, there’s a strong sense of history along this stretch of the trail.

The landscape gradually flattens as you approach Canterbury, and the towering spires of Canterbury Cathedral eventually come into view. 

The final approach into the city takes you through leafy paths and past historic buildings before leading you right into the heart of this UNESCO-listed city. 

Arriving in Canterbury feels special, with its medieval streets, welcoming pubs, and the breathtaking cathedral marking the end to this leg of the trail.

Day 10b Highlights

• Canterbury Cathedral: One of the oldest and most historic Christian structures in England. Built in 597, it’s set in beautiful gardens and it’s truly spectacular. A must visit.

Day 10b – Where to eat 

The White Horse Inn, Chilham  – A lovely village pub in the heart of Chilham that serves snacks and baguettes at lunchtime.

Day 10b – Where to stay 

Day 11b – Canterbury to Shepherdswell (10 miles) 

After Canterbury, the North Downs Way quickly swaps the city streets for peaceful countryside, taking you through a mix of rolling fields, shaded woodlands, and quiet country lanes. 

This section has a lovely, gentle feel to it, with easy walking and plenty of spots to soak in the scenery. You’ll pass through small villages like Patrixbourne and Woolage, where time seems to move a little slower.  

As you get closer to Shepherdswell, the landscape becomes even more rural, with open farmland stretching out in all directions. The trail here feels quiet and remote, a real contrast to the bustling energy of Canterbury. 

Shepherdswell itself is a small but welcoming village, and a great place to pause before continuing towards the grand finale at Dover.

Day 11b – Where to eat 

There are no places to stop and eat on this section of the trail, so I would recommend buying a sandwich, snacks and drinks before leaving Canterbury.

Day 11b – Where to stay

Shepherdswell has no real options for accommodation, so my recommendation would be to take the train back to Canterbury and stay another night in the city. You can take the train back to Shepherdswell in the morning to continue where you left off.

Here are a couple of great options for staying in Canterbury:

Day 12b – Shepherdswell to Dover (9 miles) 

The last section of the North Downs Way is a wonderful combination of quiet countryside and dramatic coastal views. 

The trail takes you through peaceful farmland and shaded woods. This gives you one last experience of the rolling Kent countryside before the scenery begins to change. 

As you get closer to the coast, you’ll start to feel the fresh air and hear the distant sounds of Dover’s port, a sign that you’re almost there.

The final descent into Dover is unforgettable. The trail takes you toward the famous White Cliffs, with stunning views of the English Channel. It’s a great way to finish the journey, with Dover Castle standing proudly above the town and the sea stretching out toward France. 

Reaching the end of the North Downs Way at this point gives you a feeling of accomplishment. And it’s a great excuse to head straight to a local pub for a well-earned drink!

Day 12b Highlights

• Dover Castle: A medieval fortress established in the 11th century. Its historical significance as a defensive structure has earned it the title “Key to England”.

Day 12b – Where to eat 

Another section of the trail with no places to stop for food, so, again, I would recommend buying a sandwich, snacks and drinks before leaving Canterbury.

Day 12b – Where to stay 

North Downs Way FAQs

Do you have any questions about walking the North Downs Way?
Let me know in the comments!

Like this post? Pin and save for later