Tucked away in Austria’s westernmost corner lies Bregenzerwald, a region where centuries-old traditions blend seamlessly with cutting-edge sustainable practices that would make any eco-conscious traveler’s heart sing. This undiscovered alpine treasure offers a rare glimpse into a community that has mastered the art of modern mountain living while maintaining deep connections to nature, traditional craftsmanship, and a quality of life that visitors find both inspiring and deeply refreshing.
Chances are you’ve never heard of the Bregenzerwald region in Vorarlberg. You may not even have heard of Vorarlberg at all!
To be honest, I hadn’t heard of either of them until I attended the Propel Conference that took place in the westernmost region of Austria in 2021.
There are so many layers to uncover in this little known region of Austria, it’s hard to know where to start. From stunning mountain trails and delicious local food, to surprising innovation and masterful local crafts, Bregenzerwald is a delightful discovery.
So let me help you along by giving you an insight of some of the best things to do in the Bregenzerwald. But before I start let’s look at an overview of the area.
Table of Contents
- 1 An overview of the Bregenzerwald
- 2 Where to to stay in the Bregenzerwald
- 3 Things to do in the Bregenzerwald
- 3.1 Explore the hiking trails in Damüls
- 3.2 Soak up those muscles in a breathtaking infinity pool
- 3.3 Visit the medieval St Nikolaus Church in Damüls
- 3.4 Discover the Umgang Bregenzerwald
- 3.5 Take the Mellau cable car to Rossstellealpe
- 3.6 Admire the Bregenzerwald architecture
- 3.7 Visit the Werkraum Bregenzerwald
- 3.8 Buy cheese from a vending machine
- 3.9 Go on a day trip to Feldkirch
- 3.10 Follow the BUS:STOP Krumbach route
- 3.11 Learn about the centuries-old tradition of the Juppe
- 3.12 Take the aerial tramway to Baumgarten
- 4 Where to to eat in the Bregenzerwald
- 5 How to get to and around the Bregenzerwald
An overview of the Bregenzerwald
Bregenzerwald (which literally means Bregenz Forest) is located in the very west of Austria, in the region of Vorarlberg. It is very close to Lake Constance, which borders Germany, Switzerland and Liechtenstein.
It consists of 23 picturesque villages and countless forests, pastures and, of course, stunning mountains. It’s an area that carries tradition proudly, but it’s not scared of coming up with bold innovative ideas.
The Bregenzerwald villages have come together with sustainable initiatives that include setting up infrastructure that keeps people in the village.
They have organised themselves in a way in which each village becomes an important part of the local network, with shared facilities such as secondary schools, doctors, fire brigade, mountain rescue, etc.
This promotes collaboration and support among them, and inspires a more collaborative approach, with the idea that every village needs each other to prosper.
Where to to stay in the Bregenzerwald
The villages of Dalmüs and Mellau are ideal bases to explore the area, so here are my recommendations for places to stay in the Bregenzerwald based on my own experience.
Hotel Bären, Mellau
Located in the charming village square of Mellau, Hotel Bären is a cosy yet modern hotel that will welcome you with open arms. Dating back to 1872, it has been recently renovated with a tasteful minimalist approach and a focus on quality and sustainability. The breakfast here is to die for!
Alpenstern Panoramahotel, Dalmüs
The Alpenstern Panoramahotel is absolutely stunning! Located in the Damüls-Mellau region, it is the perfect base if you are planning to hike in the summer or ski in the winter. Being a family-run hotel, the hospitality is really friendly and you will feel like home here.
It has been recently redesigned using local materials and the final result is fantastic, with the star attraction being its breathtaking infinity pool overlooking the mountains.
Book Alpenstern Panoramahotel here
Things to do in the Bregenzerwald
The Bregenzerwald is full of surprises, so to make the most of your time there, here are some of the best things to do in the Bregenzerwald.
Explore the hiking trails in Damüls
The Damüls Faschina area is known for its sunny hiking trails and walking circuits in the summer months, with over 200 kms of marked trails. Expansive valleys, crystal clear mountain lakes, and breathtaking views are the order of the day here.
Damüls Faschina is, in fact, one of the most beautiful Bregenzerwald hiking areas. And if you happen to be here in the early summer, the grasslands will turn multicolour with the blooms of rare Alpine flora.
So if you are staying in the Alpenstern Panoramahotel in Damüls, don’t miss out on those stunning trails!
The hike we went on started off by Alpe Portla, a cattle grazing area west of Damüls by the Furkajoch mountain pass. We walked through grasslands along the edge of Sünser Joch, with the beautiful valley and rolling hills on the left, towards Sünser See, a mountain lake with a story.
Legend has it that there is a bull sleeping in the depths of Sünser See, and that if you throw a stone into the lake it’ll wake up. So throw stones at your own peril!
Along the trail you will see a few shepherd huts. There is a strong community of semi-nomadic shepherds in the area, who move the cattle to the pastures in the summer. They use these huts as living quarters and stables during the summer season.
We took the trail towards Blauer See, a small mountain lake with crystal clear waters located at 1,924 metres above sea level. The size of the lake will vary depending on the rainfall. From Blauer See we continued on to the summit of Portlahorn, at 2,010 metres above sea level.
The 360-degree views from the top of Portlahorn are truly stunning! This is the perfect spot for a picnic, with the village of Damüls right below you, the German mountains further ahead, and the Swiss mountains behind you.
This trail was of medium difficulty with some steep hills and rocky sections, but there are trails for all abilities and of many different lengths.
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Soak up those muscles in a breathtaking infinity pool
The infinity pool at the Alpenstern Panoramahotel has one of the most breathtaking pool views I’ve ever seen. And it’s perfect for a post-hike dip.
This irresistible infinity pool, whether you’ve been hiking or not, will lure you in with the illusion that you’ll be swimming into the mountains of Damüls-Mellau.
If you’d rather stay dry, you can still enjoy the views from the comfortable and sophisticated loungers along the floor to ceiling windows. Just grab your swimming costume and your bathrobe and head down to this relaxing haven.
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Visit the medieval St Nikolaus Church in Damüls
While you are in Damüls, why not add a little bit of art to your Bregenzerwald itinerary? St Nikolaus may be a little church in a little village, but it’s of great artistic importance and one of the highlights of Vorarlberg’s art history.
Propped on a promontory above the village, it reminded me of the Vik church that I visited in Iceland.
Built in the 13th century, this unassuming church is a true gem. Its simple interior hides a real surprise – the walls are covered with impressive late-medieval frescoes that have stood the test of time.
Make sure you pop in to have a look. It’ll only take a few minutes and you will be glad you didn’t miss it!
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Discover the Umgang Bregenzerwald
The Umgang Bregenzerwald is a series of thirteen short walks through twelve villages with specially interesting architecture. These walks dive deeper into the way people of the Bregenzerwald deal with their environment, their lifestyle, and history of the valley.
Along those walks, discreet waist-high rust-coloured metal columns offer information and details on history, people, and architecture. These columns have a magnifying glass on top that you can look through while you press a button that lights up the inside of it.
The way that they are not obvious to spot ties with the local principle to always blend in and live in harmony with your surroundings, so you have to look out for them or they are easy to miss.
I walked part of the Umgang Mellau. One of the highlights was Naze’s Hus public house, a building that is several centuries old (no one knows how old exactly), and the only listed building in Mellau.
Take the Mellau cable car to Rossstellealpe
There is no shortage of cable cars in the Bregenzerwald. There are twelve to be exact. And all of them offer stunning views of the Austrian Alps as well as a super fun ride.
If you are staying at Hotel Bären in the village of Mellau, you must not miss taking the Bergbahnen Mellau to the top of Rossstellealpe.
The ride is about 6 minutes long on a 10-seater gondola, and you will love the gorgeous views of the village and the valley below.
Once up in the mountain, you can go for a hike on one of the many trails or simply have a drink in one of the cosy mountain inns and enjoy the views.
If you happen to be there on a Sunday, make sure you join in on Frühschoppen, the Austrian tradition of meeting at an inn or pub on a Sunday late morning to enjoy an alcoholic drink with your friends.
Admire the Bregenzerwald architecture
The Bregenzerwald, and the wider region of Vorarlberg, are well known for its innovative approach to architecture, with an amazing mix of traditional and contemporary styles.
The region boasts an incredible concentration of significant and architecturally important buildings. Every fourth building has been designed by an architect, something that demonstrates that here architecture is highly appreciated.
The landscape, nature and rural-craftsmanship culture in Bregenzerwald has always been of primary importance, and since the 1950s it has been led by young architects and craftspeople.
They tend to build sustainably using local materials like wood and set an intention to live in harmony with nature.
Wherever you go in the Bregenzerwald you will see examples of this craftsmanship in both traditional and contemporary constructions.
Visit the Werkraum Bregenzerwald
As mentioned, both architecture and craftsmanship are closely interwoven in the Bregenzerwald, blending tradition and contemporary styles.
This interplay of both disciplines comes together and is presented for everyone to appreciate and understand in Werkraum Bregenzerwald, in the village of Andelsbuch.
Werkraum Bregenzerwald is a craft and trade association that unites craftsmen of different guilds and promotes cooperation and exchange of ideas. It was established in 1999, and today it consists of around 100 members from different trades.
From carpentry and cabinet making, to metal work and electrical engineering, they all come together to learn from each other’s artisan production methods.
The building in Andelsbuch opened in 2013 and it was designed by Peter Zumthor. It serves as a meeting place, and it showcases the culture of craftsmanship in the Bregenzerwald through both permanent and temporary exhibitions.
It also organises training programs to make crafts attractive to young people.
Entry free to the exhibitions is 7.50 Euros.
Buy cheese from a vending machine
Vending machines are a little bit different in the Bregenzerwald. While in most places they are designed to dispense drinks and snacks, here you will find all sorts of local products, but particularly cheese.
The region is famed for delicious bergkäse (mountain cheese). It’s so good that the locals wouldn’t want you to miss out, so they’ve come up with a way of giving everyone access to it 24 hours a day. It’s ingenious!
But not only that… if you are a cheese lover, Bregenzerwald boast a KäseStrasse (Cheese Road).
KäseStrasse is not a road in the true sense of the word. It’s an association of 160 farmers, Alpine dairies, cheesemakers, inns and innkeepers specialising in cheese, museums and more, that have joined forces to preserve this regional specialty.
I got to enjoy a lot of bergkäse during my time in the Bregenzerwald. Sadly, I didn’t have time to explore the KäseStrasse, but I really hope to come back dive deeper into this cheese heaven!
Go on a day trip to Feldkirch
Even though Feldkirch is not located in the Bregenzerwald region, it is certainly worth a day trip.
This charming little town is located very close to the Liechtenstein and Switzerland border, and it is the second largest town in the Vorarlberg.
Dating back to the early 13th century, Feldkirch will take you back in time. The Medieval Old Town still preserves a lot of its original character and it’ll make you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairy-tale.
Schattenburg Castle looms over the village, and ancient watchtowers give you a glimpse of its past. Visit the Schattenburg Museum, take a stroll along the river, and enjoy the surprisingly modern Montforthaus.
Feldkirch makes for a great day trip, so here are my recommendations on things to do to help you plan.
Follow the BUS:STOP Krumbach route
You may not think that going on a bus stop spotting route sounds that interesting but these bus stops in Bregenzerwald are like nothing you’ve ever seen, and I’m not joking when I say that they were one of the highlights of my visit.
Innovation is a theme that runs through a lot of aspects of the Bregenzerwald – where you would expect to find a typical alpine down-to-earth mentality, new ideas are always springing up, and BUS:STOP Krumbach is a great example of that.
A few years ago, the central bus station in the village of Krumbach won a prize for its design. So when it came to renew the bus stops throughout the village, a local cultural association came up with the idea of asking international architects to submit their designs.
The requirements were simple: They had to offer protection from the weather, designed in a way that you could see the buses approaching from the inside, and they had to be built by local craftsmen using local materials.
The result was a series of bus stops that honour the people, the landscape and the local craftsmanship culture.
The architects involved came from all over the world: Russia, Norway, Spain, Japan, Chile, Belgium and China.
Every bust stop is unique and completely different from each other, but they are all stunning! It’s hard to pick a favourite, but the Norway bus stop, with a spectator stand over the tennis courts is up there for me.
Learn about the centuries-old tradition of the Juppe
The Juppe is the traditional costume of the Bregenzerwald. It is Europe’s oldest traditional Tracht clothing, going back hundreds of years.
The Juppe is worn only by women who were born in the area. These precious items of clothing get passed down from generation to generation, but since the opening of the Juppenwerkstatt Reifensberg, more local women and girls are getting their own.
When visiting the Juppenwerkstatt Reifensberg you learn that making the Juppe is a very specialised local craft, and a very complicated process that creates a stiff, glistening material with hundreds of pleats.
This style of dress is made according to ancient practices that only a few people can execute, and is hemmed on 100-year-old sewing and glazing machines.
Black linen from Flanders is stiffened by glue and dried in the sun over a number of cycles. It is then put through the glazing machine several times, and then through the pleating machine to add up to 500 pleats.
The process is not only complicated, but it’s also very delicate. If a mistake is made during the pleating process, the material has to go through the whole process again a year later.
If the pleating goes well, the material needs to be rolled and hung for half a year, when the distinctive blue ribbon is added to it.
Making a Juppe is a very lengthy and expensive process, and with only thirty pieces being produced in one year, there can be a long wait of 1 to 2 years to have one made. And they can cost up to 8,000 Euros to make!
The Juppenwerkstatt also has its very own Tracht clothing museum in addition to attracting architecture lovers from around the world. It is open from May to October on Tuesdays and Fridays.
Take the aerial tramway to Baumgarten
At 1,640 metres high, Baumgarten offers 360-degree views over the mountains of Austria, Germany and Switzerland.
Jump on the aerial tramway at the village of Bezau and enjoy an exhilarating ride that will take you through a 930-metre altitude difference in just a few minutes to the Baumgarten mountain station.
It is a very popular spot for hikers, paragliders, and anyone that loves beautiful views. Here you can go for a 1.5 hour long panorama trail, or you can just relax and enjoy the views and activity around you.
And while you’re here, why not visit the Panoramarestaurant Bezau for food or refreshments. It is located in an impressive spot for views, on the summit of Baumgarten.
There is a lovely scenic terrace, but if it’s too windy, you can sit inside the all glass building and still enjoy the breathtaking views.
Where to to eat in the Bregenzerwald
You wouldn’t think it, but Vorarlberg is a food lover’s dream, and the Bregenzerwald is no exception.
The region has numerous award-winning chefs, a focus on local produce, and an innovative approach on how to enjoy the best the Bregenzerwald has to offer – from the Käsestrasse to dedicated culinary hikes.
Let’s talk about the best places to eat the Bregenzerwald.
Bären Hotel, Mellau
The breakfast at the Bären Hotel is so good that it’s worth staying here just for that. Their Deli Superbreakfast really lives up to its name.
The spread is beautifully presented and there’s so much choice. But looks aren’t everything, and taste is a real winner here. The options are prepared with local ingredients, including homemade jams and local honey.
The bread comes from the local bakery, and there is an ever-changing menu of local specialties and international dishes such as Vorarlberger riebel, warm millet casserole, delicious porridges, and various salads.
Book your stay at Bären Hotel for that amazing breakfast
Naze’s Hus, Mellau
Located in the heart of Mellau, Naze’s Hus is hundreds of years old. Nobody knows how old exactly. Its name comes from one of its old owners, Ignaz (Naze), who had a workshop where he made wooden barrels and basins.
The inn serves some of the most delicious käsespätzle (the Austrian version of macaroni and cheese – kind of), presented in a traditional wooden half-barrel.
Dolores, the innkeeper, injects her cheerful personality into the restaurant and creates a cosy and jovial atmosphere.
Naze’s Hus is not only Mellau’s oldest building, but it’s also part of the Umgang Bregenzerwald.
You can also stay at Naze’s Hus if you’d like a traditional Alpine stay.
Biohotel Schwanen, Bizau
The Biohotel Schwanen in Bizau is a 5th generation family run restaurant with a strong focus on local and organic produce. Their cuisine follows the culinary teachings of Hildegard von Bingen, the herbalist nun from the Middle Ages.
The only ingredients used in the Biohotel Schwanen menus are sourced from their own vegetable garden, or from the fields and stables of local organic farmers.
It is housed within a farmhouse that dates back to at least 1605, possibly earlier, and it’s a highlight of the Umgang Bregenzerwald.
Adler Grossdorf, Egg
Collaborative approaches are key in the way people of the Bregenzerwald work, and Irma Renner and Jodok Dietrich have applied this principle to their restaurant.
The Adler Grossdorf opens only on Sundays, offering culinary travel experiences. Their menus change every week and are created using local and seasonal ingredients, by different guest chefs that range from forest housewives to internationally renowned chefs.
Alpenstern Panorama Restaurant, Damüls
You don’t need to stay at the Alpenstern Panoramahotel to enjoy the delicious food in their restaurant. Aside from offering a half-board package to their guests, there is an à la carte restaurant open to the general public.
The dishes are carefully thought out and beautifully presented, all prepared with fresh and seasonal ingredients. But they taste even better against the backdrop of the mountain peaks that you can enjoy from both the restaurant and the outdoor sun patio.
Panorama Restaurant Bezau, Baumgarten
The highlights of this restaurant are the building, the location, and the incredible views. It’s an architecturally stunning all-glass and wood building that doesn’t interfere with the landscape, and allows you to enjoy the breathtaking views from the inside.
Located at the top of Baumgarten, at 1,640 metres of altitude, the food is neither gourmet nor sophisticated, but it’s hearty comfort Austrian food that will leave you more than satisfied. I had the Wiener schnitzel, but the käsespätzle is also delicious.
How to get to and around the Bregenzerwald
By air
The closest international airports to the Bregenzerwald are in Zurich, Innsbruck, Salzburg and Munich. You can find some great deals on flights with Skyscanner or with Kiwi.com.
By train
From Zurich you can get to Bregenz easily. You can get many direct trains or with a change in either St Gallen or Feldkirch, and it only takes a couple of hours.
From within Austria, there are great connections from the east and the south of the country. Once you reach the Bregenzerwald there are plenty of regional buses and railways.
Public buses and cable cars, are included in the Bregenzerwald guest card during the summer.
By car
If you prefer not to be tied to public transport schedules, then hiring a car will be your best option.
The roads are very easy to navigate, and there are no toll roads in the Bregenzerwald. However, if you drive to Feldkirch, you may need to take the A14 motorway, which is a toll road.
Explore more of Austria
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- Fun Things To Do in Feldkirch, An Austrian Fairy-Tale Town
Do you have any questions about exploring the Bregenzerwald?
Let me know in the comments!
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Disclosure: This post has been created as a partnership with Visit Vorarlberg and Captivate Digital Media for the Propel Conference. As always, all views are my own.