48 Hour In The Historic Walled City Of Derry ~ Londonderry, Northern Ireland

Derry ~ Londonderry is one of those places that for a long time has been associated with conflict. If you’d asked me a month ago what I knew about the city, I would have mentioned Bloody Sunday and The Troubles.

Don’t get me wrong, these tragic events are part of Derry’s identity today and must not be forgotten. But perhaps it’s time for the walled city to be known for more than that.

Derry Today

Derry is a testament to what positive community relations can do for a place where conflict has ruled most people’s lives. Things have changed at a rapid pace in the last few years, and Derry is now a place of hope and of increasing prosperity.

This was evident to me over the two days I spent in the city. Locals, whether catholic or protestant, are proud of what both communities have achieved and there is a constant feeling of optimism in the air.

So why should I visit Derry? 

As I discovered myself, Derry is a city full of powerful ancient and recent history, a foodie’s paradise, with quaint Georgian architecture and a vibrant cultural scene that is ready to be discovered by the outside world.

Divided in two by the River Foyle, Derry is very close to the border with Ireland. Its biggest draw are the 17^th century walls that fully enclose the old city, one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe.

It is also a great starting point for the Causeway Coastal Route, that takes you past dramatic cliff-top castles, white sandy beaches, charming little villages, and of course, the famed Giant’s Causeway.

Here are some suggestions to get you started. I’ve highlighted some of my favourite places so you can pick and choose to create your own perfect Derry trip. Enjoy!

Top 10 Things to Do in Derry

Walking Tour of the City Walls

Derry’s star attraction is the 17^th century walls, the only remaining intact walled city in Ireland. The walls form a historic walkway of just under a mile all around the old city and offer great views over the surrounding neighbourhoods.

You will also come across the actual cannons that played a big part in the two 17^th century sieges.

I had the best guide I could have wished for, a local man so passionate about Derry’s history that he really brought it to life. And he seemed to know everyone we walked past! You can book your own walking tour here.

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The Tower Museum

An award winning museum, it is an essential visit in order to understand Derry’s past and present.

It houses two permanent exhibitions, The Story of Derry, which tells the history of the city from prehistoric times to the present day, and the Armada Shipwreck. The museum is open daily and admission is £4.

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The Guildhall

One of Derry’s most recognisable landmarks, it is a must see destination for visitors. There is a permanent exhibition about the Plantation (organised colonization) of Ulster, but it’s worth a visit just for the stunning stained glass windows. It’s open daily and it’s free entry.

Walking Tour of the Bogside

The Bogside is a neighbourhood outside of the city walls where many of the events of The Troubles, including Bloody Sunday, took place.

You can do a tour that visits the key locations of these events, including Free Derry Corner, a free-standing gable wall that commemorates Free Derry.

You will see the People’s Gallery, a collection of large gable wall murals by the Bogside Artists that remember the events of The Troubles.

Free Derry Tours is run by Eugene, a local Bogside man who knows the history of the area first hand. Tours leave from the Museum of Free Derry, so combine a tour with a visit to the museum for an in-depth view of the events.

Museum of Free Derry

This museum tells the story of what happened in the city during the ‘Free Derry’ period (1968-72), and covers the civil rights era, the Battle of the Bogside and Bloody Sunday amongst other key events.

What makes this place special is that the story is told from the point of view of those who were most affected by and involved in the incidents.

It is an emotional journey through the events of the time, but one that everyone should learn about and they must not be forgotten. Entry is £4.

The Peace Bridge

The Peace Bridge was conceived as a project to literally ‘bridge’ the gap between the two communities of the waterside (protestant) and the cityside (mostly catholic).

Originally there were concerns that people may not use it because who would want to visit ‘the other side’?

This S-shaped bridge has proven to be a great success and has been pivotal in bringing the two communities together. It stretches from Guildhall Square to Ebrington Square, where you can enjoy a great view of the city.

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Ebrington Square

Recently regenerated, Ebrington Square was the site of the British Army barracks until 2002.

It is now an open square where you can find a small but perfectly-formed brewery, Walled City Brewery, that serves delicious pintxos and craft beer. There are also plans for a distillery to open in the square in 2018.

The Siege Museum

The Siege Museum is dedicated to the history of the Siege of Derry and the Apprentice Boys of Derry, who commemorate the events of the Siege with two annual marches along the city walls.

These marches used to be seen as a provocation and they always resulted in riots, but thanks to the reconciliation between the two communities in the city, they now pass almost entirely without incident. The museum is closed on Sundays and entrance fee is £3.

Derry Craft Village

A little bit of an oasis within the city, Derry Craft Village is a Dickensian style complex with craft shops, balconied apartments, restaurants and coffee shops. It is ideal for a browse around the cute independent shops, for a nice meal or just a drink.

Church Cathedral of St Columb

Built shortly after the city walls, it is the oldest building in the city. You can book a tour directly by emailing the Cathedral, or you can just go for a stroll on the grounds.

Derry or Londonderry?

The name of the city of Derry~Londonderry has been the subject of a naming dispute between Irish nationalists and unionists. Generally, although not always, nationalists favour using the name Derry, and unionists favour Londonderry.

“The insertion of the hyphen between the words ‘Derry’ and ‘Londonderry’ was the grammatical equivalent of the city’s Peace Bridge, a device to link the two communities without diminishing either.” – Dr Paul Nolan, author of the Community Relations Council’s (CRC) third Peace Monitoring Report.

I have chosen to go for Derry for simplicity reasons.

Where to Stay in Derry

Bishops Gate Hotel

Maldron Hotel Derry

City Hotel

Planning to explore further afield?

If you would like to get out of the city, driving yourself along the Causeway Coastal Route or through the countryside, can be a great option. But car hire is not cheap, so to get the best deal, click on this banner below.

For a great road trip in Northern Ireland, check out this post from Jill at Reading The Book: Discover Northern Ireland’s beautiful Causeway Coast

And if this hasn’t convinced you yet, here are 5 reasons why you will love Northern Ireland.

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Disclosure: A big thank you to Visit Derry, who hosted me on this trip. As always, all views are my own.