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Learning The Secrets Of Real Paella In Valencia, Spain

What is real Paella? If you, like me, thought you knew, read about my enlightening visit to a paella cooking class in Valencia. Here I discovered the secrets of making real paella, learning about ingredients, how to source them and cooking methods. Spoiler alert: I reveal some juicy secrets here!

Rabbit, chicken and snails paella

‘That’s not real paella.’ I’ve heard this so many times! But what does this actually mean? What is ‘real’ paella?

We all think we know what it is, right? But do we? Having grown up in Spain, I always thought I knew, but how wrong I was!

Paella is one of Spain’s national dishes, or so we are led to believe. The actual fact is that it comes exclusively from Valencia, in the Mediterranean coast.

But it has become so popular that it has been adopted across Spain, and also the world, as the typical Spanish dish par excellence.

There is so much pride surrounding Valencian paella that local people campaigned for months to get a paella emoji. And guess what…? They got it! (Yes, go and check your phone… it’s there!)

So what is real paella?

After repeatedly hearing about the outrage that Valencians feel about us, non-locals, calling certain yellow rice dishes paella, I just had to find out what the real thing actually looks like. So I decided to join a Paella cooking class.

Narrow street in Valencia old town
The Escuela de Arroces y Paella Valencian street

I joined the 11am class, because it included a little bonus that I was very interested in – a shopping trip to the local market to purchase the fresh ingredients that I would be using. As the market closes early afternoon, the evening session does not include this.

A trip to the market

When I arrived at the school, I met Pierrette, who gathered all of us, the ‘students’, and took us to the market.

The Mercado Central is said to be one of the most beautiful market stalls in Europe and one of the many reasons to visit Valencia, and as soon as you walk inside you can see why. It is housed in a Modernist iron building from the 1920s, inspired by the 1889 Universal Exhibition in Paris.

It is referred to as a ‘Cathedral for the senses’, due to the rich smells, colours and flavours you can find within it, but also because of its intricate dome.

Fruit and vegetable stalls in Valencia Central Market
Mercado Central, a ‘Cathedral for the senses’

It sells mostly Spanish produce, and one curiosity about it is that all the stalls are family owned and passed on to the next generation.

However, if someone does not have anyone to pass their stall to, they will pass it on to their neighbour stall, which is why they are all different sizes.

Book this Paella Cooking Class here

Learning about the ingredients

Our first stop in the market was the vegetable stall, where we purchased four different kinds of beans, all of which go into the paella.

We bought broad green beans called bajoqueta, garrofó (lima beans), long white beans called tavella and long red beans called rojet. We also bought tomatoes of the pear variety, as they are fleshier and not as watery as other types.

Once we had the vegetables, we went to the spice stall to purchase saffron and smoked paprika.

As I learnt on my Valencia food tour, the best varieties of these spices come from the Spanish region of Extremadura, on the border with Portugal, and they are what give paella its yellow colour and its slightly smoky flavour.

Holding four different kinds of beans for paella
Four different kinds of beans
Display of saffron and paprika boxes in a shop in Valencia Central Market
Saffron and paprika galore!

We then went to purchase the meat – chicken and rabbit, always on the bone for more flavour. Nothing else. Well, some people may add artichokes in winter, which is the artichoke season, and snails.

But that’s pretty much it when it comes to fresh ingredients for paella. No chorizo, no seafood, no peppers… that is it.

Lady buying chickens from the market butcher in Valencia Central Market
Buying chicken and rabbit

Of course, you also have rice as the main ingredient, but we didn’t buy this at the market, as we already had some back at the school.

If you are a foodie travelling around Spain, you’ll be interested in these two food tours
Taste of Granada – The Food Tour That Goes Beyond Tapas
Valencia Food Tour – Tapas, Treats and Tiger Nuts

The making of a Valencian Paella

Once we returned to the school, we put our aprons and chef hats on (which we got to keep) and our teacher, Jaime, explained that paella is both the name of the dish and the pan that is used to cook the dish in. Also that paella must always be cooked in a paella, as any other type of pan doesn’t produce the same result.

So after we’re clear on what all the ingredients and tools are, we add some oil to the paella and once hot, we add the chicken first and the rabbit a few minutes later, and cook until they are sealed and golden all around.

Chef showing a paella pan in the kitchen
Paella is also the name of the pan used to cook paella
Cooking chicken and rabbit in paella pan
Cooking the chicken and rabbit first

While the meat cooks, we prepare the beans. We snap with our hands the bajoqueta and the rojet beans in medium pieces. Snapping is preferred as it breaks the fibre and it helps the cooking process.

For the garrofó and the tavella beans, we only eat the inside, so we peel them and discard the pods. We also grate the tomatoes and discard the skins and any excess water.

Preparing the vegetables for the paella
Preparing the vegetables
Chopped green beans ready for the paella
Bajoqueta and Rojet beans
Plate of white beans of different sizes
Tavella and Garrofó beans
Three roma ripe tomatoes on a plate
Pear (or Roma) tomatoes

Once the meat is completely sealed, we push it towards the edge of the paella and add the bajoqueta and rojet beans and turn them continuously for a few minutes until they are caramelised. We then push them towards the edge of the paella with the chicken.

We repeat this process with the garrofó and tavella beans. We then add the grated tomatoes and cook them while stirring. When the liquid has reduced, we take the meat and the beans, mix it well with the tomato and make a mound in the middle of the paella.

Grated tomatoes cooking with meat and vegetables on the edge of the paella pan
Cooking paella the local way
Meat and vegetables mixed with tomato in the centre of paella pan
Mix it all up and pile it in the middle

This is when we add the smoked paprika and mix well. Ideally paella would be cooked on the a wood fire, but as this is not always practical, smoked paprika is used to get that wood fire flavour.

We then add enough water so it’s about 1 cm from the rim of the paella, and add a good pinch of saffron, which we have previously turned into power. Add a few pinches of salt, and a long sprig of rosemary that will infuse for 10 mins, and let it simmer.

Book this Paella Cooking Class here

Cooking paella in the kitchen
Getting stuck in
Paella cooking with rosemary sprig infusing in water
Rosemary infusing for 10 minutes only

Then came my favourite part of the day. While the paella simmered, we all had a chance to catch our breath and enjoy a nice chat with a lovely glass of wine, an aperitivo. We were working hard after all, and it was welcome and very well deserved.

Plate of tortilla slices with tomato on top
Tortilla with a slice of tomato
Plate of cooked mussels
Freshly steamed mussels

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After a nice break, we were called back to the kitchen to add the rice. The best type of rice for paella is bomba rice, a round-grained variety grown in the Albufera area, outside Valencia city. But other round rice varieties can be used too.

Adding the rice to the paella in the kitchen
Adding the rice to the paella – but not too much

Almost ready!

After only a few minutes, the paella seems ready… but there is still one more thing to do. We need to make the socarrat, the toasted bit of rice at the bottom of the paella – in my opinion (and a lot of people’s) the best part of it.

At this point everyone in the class is starting to get super excited about enjoying the fruits of our labour. And it was really worth the wait. We all got to eat our own paella, and to try everyone else’s.

It was really interesting to see that even though we all followed the same instructions, every paella tasted slightly different.

In the kitchen showing the final cooked paella
The final result!

After a tasting session from the chefs, we received our compliments and further advice, and we were presented with certificates that now qualify us to make Valencian paella for friends and family, and a wooden spoon to take home.

Half eaten paella
Delicious Valencian paella!

Practical information: You can book this workshop yourself and learn to cook the real Valencian paella. And make sure you come with an empty stomach!

Book this Paella Cooking Class here

So tell me: Have you ever done a cooking workshop while travelling?
What was it like? Let me know in the comments!

Some of my favourite Spanish cookbooks

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Authentic Paella Cooking Class, Valencia, Spain
Paella Cooking Class, Valencia, Spain

Isabel

Wednesday 4th of December 2019

You have no idea the surprise I got when I read this! When I saw “Real paella” on the title I thought “oh boy here we go again” but what a welcome surprise! My family and I are all from a small little town near Valencia and I’ve grown up eating Paella my entire life. The only thing that my dad does different to that recipe is he puts in a couple of cloves of garlic which he mixes up with the tomato to give that extra yummy flavour, but other than that it was pretty much the same recipe! Thanks for showing the world how good paella can be without having to add this that and everything in between ☺️

Teresa Gomez

Sunday 14th of June 2020

Thank you so much for your comment! I really appreciate it, especially from someone who originally comes from Valencia. It means a lot that you approve :D

Lydia Smith

Sunday 10th of December 2017

Looks like an interesting activity. I remember taking an informal shopping and cooking class using Thailand dishes when I visited and I mist say, it was the best part of my trip. I'm yet to visit Spain but I'm so sire Paella would be the first dish I'd have. Looks so yummy

Teresa

Monday 11th of December 2017

Cooking classes are so much fun aren't they? A different way of immersing yourself in a different culture. I hope you get to try the paella cooking experience. It was my favourite so far :)

Kellyn

Sunday 10th of December 2017

This look so yum! Definitely different than the paella I had in Mallorca, which was yummy too. This is my way to explore, you learn so much about the people and the culture through food.

Teresa

Monday 11th of December 2017

Yes! Food is so important to get an insight of a country's culture and way of life! :)

christina

Sunday 10th of December 2017

That is a very cool and interesting class. I like that you are able to go to the market and pick out the ingredients. I think I have only had Paella once and I couldn't tell you if they did it right. I guess I'll need to go to Valencia to try it.

Teresa

Monday 11th of December 2017

It was really interesting to learn about the different kinds of ingredients and how to identify the best quality one at the market :)

Nick

Saturday 9th of December 2017

This made me so hungry! I love culinary tours that take you to the fresh markets, and I’ve always been interested in Valencia for some reason.

I wonder if you encountered any vegetarian paella? Or would such a thing be sacrilege to Valencians?

Teresa

Saturday 9th of December 2017

Hehe. If you ask a local they'd probably think it's sacrilege, but the cooking school had the option to do a vegetarian version so I'm sure it is easy to find everywhere :)