An honest review of the best mezcal tour in Oaxaca, which includes a trip to an agave field, plant your own agave, a visit to a family run palenque (mezcal distillery) and a mezcal tasting session.
If there’s one spirit that captures the essence of Oaxaca, it’s mezcal. This complex beverage is more than just a drink in Oaxaca – it’s a cultural symbol, deeply entwined with the history and heart of the region. So much so that you could say that the state of Oaxaca is the ‘capital of mezcal’.
Made from the agave plant, locally known as maguey, mezcal production is a traditional process, often passed down through generations, involving roasting the agave hearts in pit ovens.
As you wander through Oaxaca City, you’ll find mezcalerías at every turn, each offering a unique taste of this ancestral spirit.
Sampling mezcal in Oaxaca isn’t just about enjoying a drink – it’s an experience. Local producers take pride in their craft, often inviting visitors to explore their mezcal distilleries where you can witness the painstaking care that goes into each bottle.
From the harvesting of the agave to the final distillation, mezcal production is an art form. The flavors of mezcal tell the story of Oaxaca’s rich traditions and the rugged landscape from which it comes.
Table of Contents
What is mezcal?
Mezcal is an ancestral spirited drink from Mexico, distilled from the heart of the agave plant, known as the ‘piña‘.
Traditionally, the piñas are cooked in pit ovens carved into the earth, filled with hot rocks and covered in agave leaves and earth, giving mezcal its iconic internationally-known smoky taste. Saying this, mezcal has very complex flavor profiles and that smokiness is not always present.
This method of ‘cooking the piña’ dates back centuries and today is still celebrated for its ability to reflect the true essence of the maguey and the terroir of its region.
Unlike tequila, which uses only blue agave, mezcal can be made from over 40 species of agave, each adding its unique flavor notes to the final spirit. This diversity allows for a wide range of mezcals on the market, each with its own complexity and character.
Mezcal is traditionally enjoyed neat in Oaxaca, sometimes accompanied by orange slices and worm salt, although purists would frown upon this.
This magical spirit is also making a splash in craft mezcal cocktails around the world, bringing a touch of Oaxacan tradition to international bars and homes.
The best way to get up close and personal, and understand the ancestral tradition of mezcal making is by joining a dedicated tour where you visit a family owned and run palenque (mezcal distillery) and learn about the process and tradition of this ancestral drink.
You can spend a day out with a mezcalera family, visit an agave plantation, and get hands-on experience while you also learn about the different types of mezcal and their processes. The day includes a mezcal tasting and you will even get to plant your own baby agave plant!
It’s a wonderful way to dive deep into the local mezcal culture and witness the maestro mezcaleros (master mezcalero) unique tradition and worldview firsthand.
> Check rates and availability: Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience – The best mezcal tour in Oaxaca
I joined the Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience with WSE Travel, a Oaxaca-based operator for private tours and small groups, and I’m excited to share my honest review with all you need to know about the experience and why this is the best mezcal tour in Oaxaca.
I can assure you that this mezcal distillery tour is one of the best Oaxaca tours and it will be one of the most memorable experiences you will have here.
The tour is led by Victor, a local guide with a comprehensive knowledge of mezcal, its processes and history.
The day started by getting picked up at my Oaxaca accommodation and driving to Santa Catarina Minas, a village that, together with Santiago Matatlán and Sola de Vega, is located in the heart of mezcal country, an area with a very important mezcal tradition.
> Check rates and availability: Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
Meeting the maestro mezcalero
On arrival I met our host, Maestro Antonio Carlos Mendez a.k.a. Conejo, a 3rd generation mezcalero and the first in his family to own his own palenque – Palenque El Conejo – which is also his home.
Conejo is a beloved figure in Oaxaca, known for his easygoing, welcoming nature, and for hosting memorable tasting sessions at his palenque.
Making mezcal at Palenque El Conejo is a true family affair. It’s a hands-on process where each of the family members plays a specific role, contributing to the creation of this cherished agave spirit.
From harvesting the agave to distillation, everyone in the family has a part to play, making every batch of mezcal a collective labor of love.
After meeting Conejo and his family, we jumped on his truck to go to our first stop – his maguey (agave) fields. Here we learnt about the different varieties of maguey – both cultivated and wild agaves.
Visiting the agave fields
Conejo has got a sprawling piece of land where he’s proudly growing over 12 different types of agave.
He knows every inch of his plantation like the back of his hand, and has a story for every agave plant he’s ever put in the ground. Conejo’s passion and dedication is really apparent when he talks about each and every type of agave he is growing.
During our stroll through the agave fields, we got a crash course in spotting the different varieties of maguey. We learned all about the various agave species like barril verde, cuish, and coyote, and even the rare sierrudo blanco, which is nearly extinct.
We also spotted tobasiche, arroqueño, tobalá orejón, tobala chino, tripón verde, and of course, the ubiquitous espadín! It was fascinating to see the diversity up close and learn about each type’s unique characteristics.
Planting your own agave plant
While out in the fields, where we learnt about how much mezcal can be extracted from each of the different varieties of agave, we got to taste some mezcal in a lovely black clay cup (which we got to keep!).
But my favorite moment was when we were given the opportunity to plant and name our own baby agave in a dedicated agave nursery.
I planted a baby Espina Negra variety and named it ‘chapulín’ (grasshopper).
Learning about the mezcal making process
After some snacks and another well earned glass of mezcal, we returned to the palenque, where the production of mezcal takes place. Here we learnt about the process of cooking, mashing, fermentation and distillation.
Making mezcal starts with harvesting the piñas (agave hearts), which are then cooked in an underground pit to bring out their sweet flavors.
After they’re nicely roasted, the agave is crushed, traditionally in a tahona (a large stone wheel pulled by a horse or mule) or in a canoa (hole in the ground or canoe-shaped tree truck) with a heavy mazo (wooden mallet) to extract the juices.
Next up is fermentation, where the crushed agave is placed in large wooden barrels. Depending on the weather, this fermentation process can take anywhere from 3 to 7 days.
Finally, we get to distillation, which is usually done in stages to refine the mezcal. The first distillation separates the initial thick mixture produced during fermentation, and the second distillation increases the alcohol content.
Sometimes, there’s even a third distillation to achieve an even purer alcohol level. Each step is crucial and contributes to the unique flavor and potency of the mezcal.
We also learnt about the difference between artisanal and ancestral mezcal. Artisanal mezcal is when the mezcal is distilled in a copper still, and ancestral mezcal it’s when it’s distilled in clay pots. Conejo’s mezcal is ancestral.
Mezcal tasting room and Oaxacan fare
Then came the fun part… the tasting! I tried 9 different varieties of mezcal and I have to admit that I liked them all. Among the mezcal that I tried was espadín, tobalá, tobasiche, sierrudo blanco, arroqueño, barril, and cuish.
You will have the opportunity to buy your favorite mezcal to take home here, directly from the mezcalero.
The tour ends with a traditional Oaxacan lunch at a local restaurant with a pool, which, if open, you can continue having a great time before going home.
Community-based tourism in Oaxaca
This mezcal tour is a great example of community-based tourism in Oaxaca.
The mezcaleros don’t depend on the sales they will make on the day. They get paid fairly for their time by WSE Travel, the tour company I used, which is (sadly) unusual. This is one of the things I loved about this particular tour operator.
Most companies that organize mezcal tours in Oaxaca work with local producers on a sales only basis, so there’s a lot of pressure for you to buy something during the tour so the family can earn for their time spent with you.
There is no obligation or expectation, but it will probably be hard to resist buying one (or two) bottles of Conejo’s delicious mezcal.
Although if you decide to buy something it’ll always be appreciated, and you’ll get to take home a great quality product that comes directly from the producer.
WSE Travel, works closely with the communities and practices responsible tourism principles.
> Check rates and availability: Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
Why choose Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
Tour length: Up to 10 hours | Rating: 5 out of 5 stars | Book Now
One of the best mezcal tours in Oaxaca, this unique 10 hour mezcal tour and tasting is a must do. It was certainly my favorite Oaxaca tour and one of the best things to do in Oaxaca!
This Oaxaca mezcal tour includes everything you need to learn all about the process of growing the agave, the production of mezcal, and a fun tasting session, before enjoying a traditional Oaxacan lunch.
With everything included, there are no hidden costs.
Plus you get to connect with a local family of mezcaleros in a meaningful way, which is rare in these sorts of tours. Often you’d take more of an observing role, but in this tour, you get hands on with some steps of the process and get to know and interact with the mezcalero.
WSE Travel works closely with the local families of mezcaleros to ensure they get paid fairly for their time, and not on a sales only basis, like many other operators do.
> Check rates and availability: Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
What’s included in the Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
The Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience includes:
- Meeting of a family of mezcaleros
- Visit to an agave plantation
- Plant your own agave experience
- Cool bottled water and snacks
- Mezcal tasting while in the field
- Visit to a palenque (place where the mezcal production takes place)
- Tasting session of various varieties of mezcal
- A small gift to take home with you
- English and Spanish speaking private guide
- Translation by tour guide with your family of mezcaleros
- Traditional Oaxacan lunch
- Access to a pool at the restaurant
- Transportation (hotel pick up and drop off)
> Check rates and availability: Oaxaca Ancestral Mezcal Experience
What past guests have said about this tour
“This exceeded my wildest expectations for what a tour of this type could be. Having been to whiskey distillery tours in Scotland and another tour to taste cachaça in Brazil, I expected to learn very little and be pushed to buy alcohol. This was the exact opposite, as this was about a shared experience learning about this sacred spirit, the life of this family and their mezcal farm (…)”
Kristel Flores (Read more reviews)
Mezcal tasting in Oaxaca
If you would like to continue your exploration of mezcal during your time in Oaxaca, I can personally recommend tasting sessions in two of the best mezcalerías in the city.
Quiote Mezcalería
Located in the historic Barrio de Xochimilco, Quiote Mezcalería in Oaxaca is the go-to spot for anyone keen to dive deep into the world of mezcal.
This cozy mezcalería (mezcal bar) offers a vast selection of over 100 unique small-batch mezcals sourced directly from local producers. These producers have inherited their recipes and techniques through generations, and are deeply rooted in family and community traditions.
Celia, the owner, is incredibly knowledgeable and is passionate about sharing her love for this iconic Oaxacan alcoholic beverage.
Sobrio por Mezcal Speakeasy
Sobrio Por Mezcal Speakeasy is a hidden gem that’s perfect for anyone looking to immerse themselves in the local mezcal culture.
Located in the heart of the city, this mezcal tasting room offers an intimate setting where you can explore an extensive selection of meticulously curated mezcals from small producers in the Mexican state of Oaxaca.
Carlos, the owner, will walk you through the different types of mezcal, the mezcal making processes, and the various tasting notes, inviting you to linger over each sip and savor the stories behind the spirits.
They even offer an online tasting session!
And if you are looking to expand your knowledge of Mexican spirits, here you will also have the opportunity to taste other ancestral drinks like sotol, from the state of Chihuahua.
>Book your mezcal tasting with Sobrio por Mezcal Speakeasy here
Other highly recommended Oaxaca tours
Here are other highly recommended WSE Travel tours that work closely with the local communities of Oaxaca. I have done all these tours myself, so I can personally recommend them:
Do you have any questions about this Oaxaca mezcal tour?
Let me know in the comments!
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Disclosure: This post has been created as a partnership with WSE Travel. As always, all views are my own.