4 days in the Yorkshire Dales: The perfect long weekend for stargazing lovers

An itinerary for 4 days in the Yorkshire Dales that includes a mix of classic highlights, hidden gems, and plenty of time to enjoy the landscapes and the stars. Here’s all you need to make the most of a long weekend in the Yorkshire Dales.

With rolling hills dotted by Swaledale sheep, quaint stone villages, dramatic waterfalls and some of the darkest skies in England, the Yorkshire Dales are made for slow travel.

The Yorkshire Dales National Park is the largest Dark Sky Reserve in the UK, where it’s possible to see the Milky Way, planets, meteors, and even the Northern Lights under the right circumstances.

Pair that with high ground, remote roads, and pubs that sit miles from anywhere, and you have one of the best places in England for casual stargazing without the need for specialist equipment.

I love a clear night sky where you can see the Milky Way and spot the constellations. I’ve travelled around the world and made stargazing part of my itinerary whenever possible – from the Acadian Shores of Nova Scotia to Valencia in Spain.

I’ve always wanted to visit the Dales, so when I found out that it was the perfect place to see the stars in England, I just had to visit.

So I put together this 4 day itinerary for a long weekend in the Yorkshire Dales, where I included scenic drives, short walks, and the best spots to enjoy the starry skies. 

Where to stay in the Yorkshire Dales

If you really want to experience the Yorkshire Dales properly, I always recommend staying in a traditional stone cottage rather than a hotel. 

Waking up in a village, hearing the river or the sheep outside, and ending the day by an open fire feels much more in tune with how life works here.

The Haven, Gunnerside

For this trip, I stayed in The Haven, a two-bedroom traditional stone cottage in the village of Gunnerside in Swaledale, booked through Classic Cottages.

Gunnerside made the perfect base for exploring the Yorkshire Dales, especially if stargazing is high on your list. Being able to step outside at night and see a sky full of stars, then head back inside to warm up by the fire, is exactly what a Dales stay should feel like.

After enjoying a lovely traditional stay in Cornwall, I knew I’d be using Classic Cottages again. Especially, as they are great for short breaks and they were perfect for my long weekend in the Yorkshire Dales.

Self-catering cottage stays are often thought of as accommodation for longer breaks – one week or longer. However, Classic Cottages offer shorter stays too, making this kind of accommodation far more accessible than a lot of people realise. 

And for a 4 day break like the one I took, a cottage stay gives you comfort, flexibility, and a deeper connection to the place, without needing to commit to a full week away.

Check out more cottages in Yorkshire by Classic Cottages here.

4 Days in the Yorkshire Dales Itinerary

Day 1: Markets, waterfalls and secret spots

Reeth Market

Reeth is one of Swaledale’s most characterful villages, and it’s the perfect place to start your long weekend in the Yorkshire Dales, especially if you’re here on a Friday. 

Friday is market day in Reeth, when the village green comes to life with local produce, crafts, and baked goods. It’s small but atmospheric, and a good introduction to the rural pace of the Dales.

It’s also the perfect opportunity to stock up on local treats to enjoy throughout the weekend.

But even if you miss market day, Reeth is worth a wander around. Look out for traditional stone cottages, independent shops, and views over the surrounding hills.

The Two Dales Bakery is a great place to stop for breakfast or for a nice cup of tea after exploring the village.

Aysgarth Falls

Aysgarth Falls is one of the most famous waterfall systems in the Dales. Rather than a single drop, the River Ure cascades over a series of wide limestone steps.

Even when the Visitor Centre is closed, you can still visit the waterfalls, which are very easy to reach. 

There are well-marked paths on both sides of the river, suitable for most fitness levels. Take your time here, the falls look different depending on rainfall, and the changing viewpoints are part of the experience.

The Upper Falls are very close to the Visitor Centre and car park, and the Lower and Middle Falls are along a mile-long trail that is very easy to follow.

If you have time, there is also a mile-long Woodland Trail and a longer 2.7-mile Countryside Trail you can take from the Middle Falls.

Aysgarth Edwardian Rock Garden

Just over a mile away from the falls, the Aysgarth Edwardian Rock Garden is often overlooked. It’s a quiet, slightly hidden spot with stone terraces, winding paths and unexpected views. 

The garden was created in the early 1900s by Frank Sayer Graham, who commissioned a rock garden opposite his cottage, with the idea of creating a ‘walk-through grotto’. That vision still holds up today.

The limestone rocks you see throughout the garden were brought here from a nearby moor. It’s a small and easy place to explore, with gravel paths, narrow winding walkways, a small waterfall and a couple of simple seating areas. 

You don’t need long here, but it feels unexpectedly different from anything else nearby. Slightly hidden, a bit strange, and definitely worth stopping for.

The garden is also a listed building, protected to make sure it stays exactly as it is.

Druid’s Temple

This is another hidden gem in the Yorkshire Dales that many people miss. 

At first glance, the Druid’s Temple near Masham looks ancient. In reality, it’s much younger. The stone circle is a folly built in the late 1700s, designed to echo famous prehistoric sites like Stonehenge rather than replicate them.

It was commissioned by William Danby, a wealthy local landowner, during a time of high unemployment. The project gave local workers paid labour, earning a shilling a day, which makes the site’s origins far more practical than mystical.

That hasn’t stopped stories from forming. Over the years, rumours of strange rituals, devil worship and unsettling night-time experiences have attached themselves to the site.

Even knowing its true history, the setting still feels atmospheric, especially when the moorland is quiet.

Today, the Druid’s Temple is a calm and accessible place to visit. It’s well maintained as part of the Swinton Estate, with parking and refreshments close by, making it a lovely spot for a gentle walk or picnic.

Stargazing in Gunnerside

I ended my first day back in Gunnerside, where the cottage I stayed at is.

You may think that being a village with street lights it’s not really a good place to see the stars. But after it gets dark, if you walk a few metres outside the main streets, it is the perfect place for stargazing with very little light pollution.

Bring warm layers, even in summer, and give your eyes time to adjust. You don’t need special equipment, as the Milky Way is often visible to the naked eye. And if you time your visit with a meteor shower, like I did, you’ll be able to see the meteors or shooting stars easily.

Where to eat in the Yorkshire Dales (Day 1)

Wensleydale Heifer, West Witton

Everyone I spoke to recommended The Wensleydale Heifer, famous for its lunchtime chippie (open Monday to Friday only), which might feel unexpected this far inland. So, of course, I had to go.

I ordered a small portion of fish and chips. The fish was fresh, lightly battered, and perfectly cooked, with proper chunky chips on the side. It’s the kind of comfort food that was just right after a morning of exploring.

They’re also known for once serving what was recognised as the largest portion of fish and chips in the world, earning a Guinness World Record.

The restaurant itself feels relaxed and welcoming rather than formal, and it’s long been a favourite with both locals and visitors.

Day 2: High passes, cheese and England’s highest pub

Buttertubs Pass

One of the most memorable drives in the Yorkshire Dales is Buttertubs Pass, a high moorland road that links Hawes in Wensleydale with Thwaite in Swaledale. 

It’s only about 5-6 miles long, but what it lacks in distance it more than makes up for in scenery. 

The road climbs over open moorland, winds through tight bends, and offers wide views across rolling hills and valleys. It is the kind of landscape that makes you slow down and look out the window.

Don’t do that if you’re the driver though. There are a few places where you can stop safely and enjoy the view without any risks.

The pass gets its name from the curious limestone potholes near the summit, known locally as the “buttertubs”. Folklore says that farmers once used these deep holes to keep their butter cool on hot market days, a practical use that turned into local legend.

Hawes

Hawes is the main town in Upper Wensleydale and a beautiful village. It has a small but busy centre with independent shops, cafés, and traditional pubs.

One of the most interesting places to visit in Hawes is the Dales Countryside Museum, which gives a good insight into rural life in the Yorkshire Dales, from farming and dry stone walls to local traditions and industries. 

But what it’s most famous for, is Wensleydale Creamery, home of Wensleydale cheese.

Wensleydale Creamery

Right on the edge of Hawes is the Wensleydale Creamery, home of the region’s most famous cheese, Wensleydale cheese. Whether you are a big cheese lover or just curious about local food, visiting the Wensleydale Creamery is a must while in the Yorkshire Dales.

The experience goes beyond a quick tasting. You can learn about the traditional cheese making process, the role it’s played in the Dales for centuries, and watch parts of the factory in action as the cheese is made on site. It adds a lot of context to something that’s so closely tied to this area.

The tasting room is a highlight, with a generous selection that lets you try classic Wensleydale as well as seasonal and flavoured varieties. There’s also a well stocked shop, which is the best place to pick up cheese to take home, along with local chutneys and gifts. 

And of course, there’s the pop-culture connection. Wensleydale cheese became famous far beyond Yorkshire thanks to Wallace and Gromit, giving this small Dales product a global audience and the catchphrase… ‘Cheese, Gromit!’

And if you haven’t had enough cheese and want to make a proper stop of it, the Cheesy Afternoon Tea is cheese lovers’ heaven. It pairs different cheeses with sweet and savoury treats. 

Hardraw Force

Hardraw Force is one of the most impressive waterfalls in the Yorkshire Dales and feels surprisingly hidden until you’re right in front of it. 

At 100 feet high, it’s the tallest single drop waterfall in England, tumbling into a natural limestone amphitheatre that makes the whole place feel enclosed and dramatic. The sound alone is enough to stop you in your tracks, especially after heavy rain.

Access is through the Green Dragon Inn in the village of Hardraw, where a small entry fee helps maintain the site. The walk from the pub is short and easy, making it an accessible stop without a long hike. 

Cotter Force

Cotter Force offers a much quieter waterfall experience and is a good contrast to the bigger, more dramatic falls nearby. Although just as beautiful.

Reached by a gentle woodland walk, the river flows over a series of small cascades rather than one large drop, creating a calm, unrushed feel.

The path follows the water closely and is easy to manage. You can hear the sound of the waterfall as you approach before you get to see it. It’s a nice place for a slow stroll, to listen to the water, and to enjoy a quieter corner of the Dales.

Stargazing at Tan Hill Inn

Finish the day at the Tan Hill Inn, which sits high on the moors. It’s the highest pub in England, and getting there is part of the adventure, especially as the landscape opens up and the roads become quieter. 

A few years ago, the Tan Hill Inn became famous by making the news as dozens of guests and staff were snowed in and trapped in the pub for five days. The anecdote became a fun-filled experience with games, music, and newfound friendships before being rescued by snowplough.

Once night falls, Tan Hill Inn really comes into its own. The pub sits in an area with no light pollution, making it an excellent spot for stargazing on clear nights. 

Step outside after dinner and you’ll often see a sky full of stars, with the Milky Way visible when conditions are right. It’s cold, exposed, and completely still, the perfect place for stargazing and the perfect way to end the second day in the Yorkshire Dales.

Where to eat in the Yorkshire Dales (Day 2)

Calvert’s (Wensleydale Creamery)

Lunch at Calvert’s, the restaurant inside the Wensleydale Creamery, is an easy addition to a visit and a good way to break up the day. 

The menu leans into local produce and, unsurprisingly, Wensleydale cheese, with simple well made dishes.

But the star of the menu is the Cheesy Afternoon Tea, which includes welsh rarebit, three cheese quiche, mac ‘n’ four cheeses, and two types of cheesecakes – all made with Wensleyday Cheese, of course.

Tan Hill Inn

If you follow this itinerary, Tan Hill Inn will be your last stop of the day, so it makes sense to have dinner here.

Food here is hearty, comforting, and it feels a bit like a novelty having dinner in the highest pub in England. The menu focuses on classic pub dishes served in a warm, welcoming space that feels even more inviting given the pub’s remote setting. 

Sitting down for a proper meal here, with the moors stretching out beyond the windows, is part of what makes a visit to Tan Hill feel so memorable.

Plus don’t forget the incredible sight of the stars when you come out. That’s something hard to forget.

Day 3: Malham Cove, villages and night skies

Malham Cove

Visiting Malham Cove is one of the top places to visit in the Yorkshire Dales. The huge curved limestone cliff rises sharply from the valley floor and is a magnet for both hikers and climbers, with some of the most famous climbing routes in the country etched into its face. 

The walk from Malham village is straightforward and popular, especially on clear days.

At the top, the limestone pavement is an unusual geological feature of large, flat limestone blocks separated by deep cracks that look like a ‘moonscape’.

The limestone pavement is famous for featuring in a Harry Potter film, and a very popular filming location. I remember seeing it in a version of Wuthering Heights many years ago and thinking it looked so otherworldly, that I added it to my list of places to visit in England. 

However, I was a bit unlucky when I visited, as the pavement was closed due to filming. 

Even so, the climb up the steps to the top was more than worth it for the views. Looking out across the Dales from above the cove gives you a real sense of scale and space, even without stepping onto the pavement itself.

Gordale Scar

Gordale Scar is a dramatic limestone ravine not far from Malham Cove, that cuts deep into the countryside, with towering rock walls and waterfalls that make it feel wild and enclosed at the same time. 

It’s a popular spot with hikers and climbers, attracted by the scale of the cliffs and the sense of adventure as you get closer to the narrow gorge.

Again, I couldn’t access it this time as the same filming crew were setting up here too so I could only see it from afar. So I am adding it to my list for my next visit to the Yorkshire Dales.

Janet’s Foss

A short drive away from Gordale Scar, the walk to Janet’s Foss is a much more gentle one. The small waterfall sits in a shaded woodland setting, with a clear pool at its base and moss-covered rocks all around. 

The area is tied to local folklore, with stories that the waterfall was once home to a Fairy Queen known as Janet. Whether or not you know the legend, the setting feels like a hidden magical spot.

It’s easy to get to from the road and popular with walkers looking for something scenic without a big climb.

Grassington

Grassington is said to be one of the Yorkshire Dales’ most beautiful villages, with a wide cobbled square, stone buildings, and a good mix of independent shops, cafés and pubs. 

It’s a popular stop, but it still feels rooted in everyday village life rather than set up purely for visitors. Take time to wander the side streets, pop into the small shops, or stop for a coffee and watch life go by in the square.

The village is well known as the filming location for Darrowby in the recent adaptation of All Creatures Great and Small, which has brought it extra attention in recent years. You can even take a tour based on this TV series and visit a lot of the filming locations.

> Book an All Creatures Great and Small tour here

Beyond the screen connection, Grassington is also a good base for short walks, including riverside paths and routes onto the surrounding hills. 

It’s an easy place to spend an hour or two, whether you’re passing through or slowing the pace of the day.

Kettlewell

A short drive away, Kettlewell is another small village set deep in Upper Wharfedale, surrounded by steep hills that make it feel tucked into the landscape. 

It’s quieter than nearby Grassington and has a slower, more lived-in feel. A short wander through the village takes you past traditional stone cottages, the village green and a handful of pubs and tearooms.

The village became widely known as one of the filming locations for Calendar Girls, which was shot here in the early 2000s. 

Beyond the film connection, Kettlewell is a popular base for walkers, with well-marked routes leading up onto the surrounding fells and along the river. It’s also known for its annual scarecrow festival that takes place every August.

Where to eat in the Yorkshires Dales (Day 3)

The Buck Inn, Malham

Lunch at The Buck Inn in Malham is a solid, no-fuss stop after time spent walking around Malham Cove and exploring Gordale Scar and Janet’s Foss. It’s a traditional pub with a relaxed atmosphere and a menu that focuses on classic pub dishes.

I ordered the cumberland sausage with mashed potato and it was perfect to refuel and continue with my Yorkshire Dales adventure.

Day 4: Viaducts, caves and northern legends

Ribblehead Viaduct

The scale of Ribblehead Viaduct is what surprised me the most. You can see it in the distance from the road as you approach it, but it’s not really clear how big it is until you get up close.

The huge stone structure stretches across the moorland with the Three Peaks in the background, and it feels especially dramatic when a train passes over. I was lucky to see a little local train go over, but you can get even luckier and catch a steam engine from time to time.

It’s easy to walk around the area and see the viaduct from different angles, with wide open views in every direction.

It was built in the 1870s as part of the Settle – Carlisle railway and is made up of 24 stone arches. Thousands of manual labourers (navvies) worked on its construction, many living in temporary camps nearby in harsh conditions. 

Today, it’s a Grade II* listed structure and one of the most recognisable landmarks in the Yorkshire Dales. Even if you only stop briefly, it’s well worth it for the setting alone.

Ingleton Waterfalls Trail

The Ingleton Waterfalls Trail is one of the most popular walks in the Yorkshire Dales, and it’s easy to see why. This 4-mile circular route takes you through woodland and along rivers, passing a series of impressive waterfalls, including the well known Thornton Force. 

The path is well maintained, but there are plenty of steps and steady climbs, so it feels like a proper walk rather than a gentle stroll.

The trail has been drawing visitors since Victorian times, when it became a fashionable attraction for early tourists to the area. Today, a small entry fee helps maintain the paths and viewing platforms. 

Allow 2.5-3 hours to complete the full route and take it at a relaxed pace.

White Scar Cave

White Scar Cave is the longest show cave in England. It takes you deep underground through a series of vast chambers filled with stalactites, underground streams and dramatic rock formations. 

The guided tour moves at a steady pace and makes the geology easy to understand, even if caves aren’t usually your thing.

The cave was discovered in 1925 by three amateur cavers and opened to the public a few years later. It stays cool inside all year, so an extra layer is useful even in summer. 

White Scar Cave is open every day between February and October, and weekends only between November and January.

Pendragon Castle

Pendragon Castle is a remote ruin that sits above the Eden Valley, surrounded by open countryside, and it’s the kind of place you can easily have to yourself. I only had to share it with a bunch of Swaledale Sheep.

There isn’t much left standing, but the setting makes it worth a visit, with wide views and a real sense of isolation.

The castle is traditionally linked to King Arthur, said to have been built by Uther Pendragon, Arthur’s father, though the ruins you see today date mainly from the 12th century. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries before eventually being abandoned. 

Today, it’s less about grand architecture and more about atmosphere. If you visit on a misty day, it’s a truly eerie and haunting sight.

Where to eat in the Yorkshire Dales (Day 4)

Rind – Pizza, Cheese & Wine, Austwick

Rind is the perfect lunch spot when you’re exploring this part of the Yorkshire Dales. The menu centres around British cheese, with wood-fired pizzas, seasonal small plates and generous cheese boards, all made using produce from nearby farms.

Created by the team behind London’s The Cheese Bar, they have a British approach to a highly acclaimed Neapolitan-style pizza. Not your traditional British fare, but definitely worth a try.

If you have more than 4 days in the Yorkshire Dales

If you can extend your trip and spend more than 4 days in the Yorkshire Dales, these stops are well worth adding to your itinerary:

• Sheepdog demonstration
  Every Thursday, Richard Fawcett, famous local farmer and sheepdog handler, puts on a demonstration in Hawes, where you can learn how working dogs are trained and used on local farms.

• Bolton Castle
  One of the best-preserved medieval castles in the Yorkshire Dales, it was built in the 14th century and it’s known for once holding Mary Queen of Scots prisoner.
• Gaping Gill
  One of the largest underground chambers in England, it’s known for its vast vertical drop, where a waterfall disappears straight into the cave system below.
• Cauldron Force
  A powerful waterfall where the river squeezes through a narrow rock channel before plunging the swirling plunge pool below that it’s named after.
• Kisdon Force & Crackpot Hall
  A scenic and atmospheric walk in Upper Swaledale that combines a dramatic waterfall with the ruins of an old lead mining settlement.
• The Forbidden Corner
  One of the Yorkshire Dales’ most unusual attractions. Part folly garden, part maze, part surreal adventure, it’s filled with tunnels, dead ends, statues and hidden doors.

How to get around the Yorkshire Dales

This 4-day itinerary mixes classic sights with lesser-known spots, with enough time to slow down and enjoy the scenery. But you will need a car to reach most places.

If you don’t have your own, I’d recommend checking hire car comparison sites like Discovercars for the best deals.

> Check the best deals for hire cars here

Just bear in mind that distances are short, but roads are narrow and winding, so you’ll need to allow more time than the map suggests.

Do you have any questions about this itinerary for 4 days in the Yorkshire Dales?
Let me know in the comments!

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Disclosure: This post has been created as a partnership with Classic Cottages. As always, all views are my own.